I'm
pretty sure I'm friends with the Buttery's biggest fan...he has been
visiting this much-loved Bristol institution on an almost daily basis
since childhood and has been singing its praises since he learned how
to form the words to do so! OK, so I'm exaggerating a little but it
is fair to say that he has been encouraging me to overcome my coffee
snobbery and visit the home of the city's best bacon butty for quite
some time now. Thus, making the most a rare bout of January sunshine,
I decided to go and see what all the fuss was about, finding that it
really is one of the City's hidden gems – a greasy spoon
with community-spirit at its core...
Date
and Time: Wednesday 9th January 2013, 2:30pm
Name
of Establishment: Brunel's Buttery*
Location:
Wapping Wharf, Bristol
Reason
for Visit: Peer pressure and then some...!
Situated
on Wapping Railway Wharf where the odd steam train has been known to
roll by, Brunel's Buttery is essentially an old-school brick-built
outhouse with a small hatch from which your order is taken (and your
numbered ticket allocated with which you later claim your grub) –
marvellous if you consider the rather intimate space the team have to
utilise in order to whip up brekkie for the masses but not quite so
awesome if you're after somewhere warm/comfortable/a place to plug in
your laptop – delete as applicable. Furthermore, if you're a bit of
a princess when it comes exposing oneself to the elements, this is
probably not the place for you as a sprinkling of picnic-bench style
seating denotes the grand tradition of alfresco dining...on a
year-round basis! That said, its dockside location makes for an
attractive back-drop and allows for a spot of people-watching. It's
also a stones-throw away from a number of Bristol's most iconic
landmarks; including the likes of the SS Great Britain and Clifton
Suspension bridge; creations of the café's namesake no less.
There
is nothing glitzy or over-done about the appearance of this space; it
seems as though the quality of the fare speaks for itself as despite
the venue's humble disposition, the queue of people that often snakes
beyond its well-attended boundaries seems to hint at the notion that
its reputation well and truly proceeds it. Yes, although I was
convinced that I was an 'Eggs Benedict' kind of girl, the bacon
sarnie (£2.80) that I indulged in was undoubtedly first rate. With
bread which had so obviously been freshly baked that morning and
good-quality bacon which had been generously portioned so to melt the
butter spread beneath it, this was the kind of comfort-food to remedy
a hangover or mend a broken heart! Leafy garnishes seem somewhat
superfluous and condiments are self-served from industrial-sized
dispensers on the shelf to the right of the counter – meaning that
you're not lumbered with anything you wouldn't necessarily choose to
sandwich elsewhere. There are a range of fried favourites to choose
from but egg, bacon or sausage sarnies, or any combination there of,
seem to warrant the most attention. Chips appeared perfectly
executed, golden-brown in colour and served in newspaper-effect cones
for nostalgic effect. Furthermore, the range of cakes available would
put granny's kitchen to shame; fruit scones piled high with jam and
clotted cream were particularly coveted, my dining companion having
to cut hers into four so to consume it in a lady-like manner! I also
have it on good authority that the rock cakes are to die for; though
they are snapped up rather quickly and, as such, I haven't been lucky
enough to bag one just yet, (a sound motive for a return-visit if
ever an excuse was needed...!) I also liked that the establishment
functions as an old-fashioned tuck-shop which, complete with Freddo
Frogs and cartons of Ribena, is great for younger visitors or for the
big kids amongst us!
To
wash down one's spoils, I'd suggest that an 80s style glass mug containing what can only be
described as 'builder's tea' is pretty much the drink of choice and although I'm sure that the friendly work-force will fix a brew to your
particular requirements, I observed a lot of 'milk and two sugar'
orders which gave the impression of a tea-time trend that us
coffee addicts simply aren't privy to. Speaking of which, coffee is
of the instant variety and thus, the initial cause of my hesitant
approach to this eatery...but a fine eatery it is and I'm certain
that you would be able to pick one up 'on route' if you just couldn't
do without.
Overall,
this really was a venue from which to experience the very best that
Bristol has to offer; its defining structures, integral naval
presence and West-Country
comradery.
It might not be to everyone's taste but there is no denying its
substance; albeit superseding its style – who needs the great
indoors anyway?!
And
now for the second opinion...
The
Buttery's biggest fan gave it 11/10 (no surprises there then) and in
three words, paid homage to its signature dish...the 'perfect bacon
sandwich'!
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